110V Lamp Bulb replacement

With one of the 10 Watt LED lamp kit Roberto sent, I tried to build a bulb replacement.
Here some notes and comments.

First attempt

I started from an old CFL lamp, removing the fluorescent tube and the electronic ballast.
The LED power supply in the kit was round and fit perfectly the old CFL base.

The initial kit included the 10 Watt LED and a small square heat-sink with a fan.

I glued the LED to the heat-sink with a thermal compound and I attached the heat-sink to the CFL base using hot glue.
Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the first bulb replacement attempt.
It worked nicely until one day the fan broke down. Without the fan the temperature of the heat-sink was high enough to melt down the hot glue, detaching the heat-sink and the LED from the bulb base.

Second attempt

I had to rebuild the lamp bulb.
This time I choose to have a passive heat-sink, so I ordered one round and big enough for the 10 Watt LED.

The problem to solve was how to connect the heat-sink to the bulb base.
I decided to try the same method adopted for one of the desk lamp modifications.
Since the bulb base is around 2 inches diameter, I cut a piece of wood with that diameter.
Lee was able to drill and tap a hole in the heat-sink in order to screw it to the round piece of wood.

I did a hole in the bulb base to have the wires out and then I screwed the wood round piece to the bulb with 4 screws.
Here the lamp assembled and a detail of the attachment to the bulb base :

The only problem so far is that the bigger heat-sink prevent to use the lamp in many of my fixtures !!
Otherwise is working perfectly.

Retrofit a small desk lamp with LED

Among the LED lamp kit I had around, there was a 3W Cree Xlamp 7090 with a small power supply.
For a while I kept it mounted it in a cable clipper, glued under a shelf.
Then, after some renovation in the Athena's room, a small desk lamp caught my attention and I decided to retrofit it with  such kit.
I removed the original lamp socket and rewired the base of the lamp.
Like the electronic  lab lamp I did, I decided to put in the lamp top reflector only the LED with the heat-sink.
The power supply, a very small one, is in the base.
Here some pictures and notes :

This is the small desk lamp retrofitted with the Cree 3Watt LED.

This is the kit used to retrofit the small desk lamp.
Originally I placed the diffuser/lens, but for this application I removed it since the light is better reflected by the lamp diffuser.

The lamp base opened.
The weight is insulated by a plastic bag.
The base material is plastic, so already insulated.

Here the base emptied.

And here the base retrofitted.
The power supply (on the right)  and the new small cable carrying the LED power supply entering in the shaft (on the left).

 Here the LED glued on the heat-sink and  attached to the original lamp support.

 
The lamp on.  A very nice and strong light.
More than enough to replace the original 40W incandescent bulb.

Retrofit a lab lamp with LED

During my last visit in Dallas I went to Ikea and I bough a nice lab lamp, ideal to be converted as LED lamp.
I choose to put the power supply outside the lamp, in a small box because it's dimensions were too big to be fitted in the lamp body.
The 10W warm white LED was glued to a heat-sink and mounted over an old fluorescent lamp base, after removing the fluorescent lamp and it's electronic of course.
The glue used, a thermal compound, was supposed to be very strong, however after a couple of months of use, it lost the grip and the LED detached from the heat-sink.
That caused  the LED to become VERY hot, melting in part the power supply cable, causing a very strong and uncomfortable smell.
I had to rebuild the LED attachment, this time drilling the heat-sink.

After removing the old glue from the heat-sink and the LED base, I placed a new coat of thermal glue and then screwed the LED to the heat-sink.
I also used a different kind of wires, supposedly more heat resistant than the previous ones.

Since the power supply is outside the lamp,  the lamp socket is not carrying anymore the 110V.
I decided to don't modify the mechanic of the lamp, so the original rotating switch is still in place but not used (switch left always in the ON position).

The new switch for the lamp is on the power supply box.
Here some pictures and notes :

The lab lamp working (a Red Roomba is under maintenance :-) )
Note the small black box containing the LED power supply close to the soldering iron.

The 10W LED glued to the heat-sink.
This picture was taken  the first time I built the lamp.
After a while the heat caused the LED to be detached from the heat-sink.
The black/red wire I used started to melt too, causing a very bad and strong smell. Not good at all !

The new assembly.
Now the LED is glued AND screwed to the heat-sink and I used a more heat resistant wires.

This lamp is perfect to work in the electronic lab, on the main desk.
I recommend to use a warm white LED, not a clear white one.
This LED provides around 560 Lumen concentrated on a small area.